Nelson Lakes

Nelson Lakes in the winter.

By Neil Thompson

For photos click here

A trip to Nelson Lakes in the middle of winter sounded a little extreme for some. But with the promise of short distances and huts with fire places instead of tents, the trip was soon full with 10 Wellington Yakity Yak members.

Leaving Friday evening on the ferry with a van full of eager clubbies and a trailer full of kayaks it was off to Blenheim for the night. An early start to the following day with breakfast on the road we wanted to make the most of the short daylight hours.

There are two main lakes that we wanted to paddle and Lake Rotoroa was first on the list. The lake is 15km long and only 2km at its widest. We were greeted with an overcast day and flat glassy water. As we paddled down the eastern side of the lake we were slowly shown the beauty of the surroundings as the cloud came and went around the mountains that enclose the lake. Snow covered around the tops, it was a fantastic view. At a leisurely pace we reached Sabine hut at the south end of the lake around 2pm and after unloading gear we headed off for a walk along one of the many tracks in the area. After a couple of kilometers we reached a foot bridge over the Sabine River and a gorge that has deep crystal clear water running through it. A beautiful spot and well worth the walk to see it. That night back at the hut it was a gourmet meal for some with a couple of mulled wines and then off to bed.

Next day dawned with weather pretty much the same as the previous day but the cloud was a little higher so we got more of an indication as to the awesome views around the lake. Once on the water we continued around the southern end of the lake and past D’Urville hut. The paddle for the day was 17km and with glassy conditions it was very enjoyable kayaking. Off the water by 2pm we loaded up the van and made for Lake Rotoiti.

At the Northern end of Lake Rotoiti is the small settlement of St. Arnaud. Being close to the Rainbow ski field there is a good selection of accommodation. We had made bookings with a lodge that offered backpacking accommodation but to our good fortune they had had some plumbing issues with the backpackers and had to upgrade us to more luxurious hotel rooms. Shame. A night of fine dinning and good company it was hard to think of the next night being back in a hut again.

Lake Rotoiti is the smaller of the two main lakes in the area, at only 8km at its longest point it can be a very short paddle but with a large bay off to the western side of the lake it adds another 6kms to the journey. Paddling into West Bay we kayaked past the birthplace of the Buller River. Such an insignificant beginning to what turns into a rather large river at Westport.

Again surrounded by snow topped mountains I was now being harassed by some in the group who referred back to a photo I had used in promoting the trip that showed snow down to lake level. With the imminent threat of legal action for false advertising (a lawyer in the group was open to the highest bidder) I told them not to panic. The trip wasn’t over yet…

With about 3km to the Coldwater hut we stopped at stream and after a short walk up a track we came to Whiskey Falls. This was very impressive as you could walk up the stream to right under the falls. Make sure you have good wet weather gear on as the water and wind from the falls was very cold. With some in the group starting to cool down it was back to the kayaks and onto Coldwater hut. First thing on the ‘to do list’ was to start the fire. Plenty of people put there hands up for this task but when you have a volunteer fireman on the trip, stand back, he will climb over you to get the matches.

After some people had been for a walk and the rest just chilling, rain started to fall. An hour later there was some sleet. “Snow damn you”.

At around 9pm a few were still up playing cards and listening to the rain on the roof. Then the noise of the rain disappeared. Fingers crossed I went outside and to my relief it was snowing. Court case avoided.

After a while the snow got deeper and the people left sleeping were woken by the sound of snowballs hitting the hut. It was all on. Most were up getting hit in the face with snow at 11 o’clock at night. Yeah ha. One crazy clubby, who I won’t mention his name (Dave Wills), was dared to do a snow angel in his birthday suit on the jetty. Within a minute he was down to his boxers and performing the said deed. Not quite naked, but it was cold. Something about shrinkage he said. Nice work Dave.

Next morning we woke to snow down to the lake edge and about 4cm covering the kayaks. Without sounding too corny, it was one of the most beautiful things I had ever seen.

Some cleared the snow of their kayaks while others left it on, knowing the snowball fight was to continue. Which it did, all the way back to St.Arnaud. At St.Arnaud the last to get out of their kayaks got smashed by snowballs right on the lakes edge, with no where to go they were sitting ducks, me included.

With a sort out of gear and a change of clothes it was off to Picton for the ferry home.

A trip with a great group of people and a lot of humor it will be one talked about for a while. If you ever get a chance to paddle this area, it’s well worth doing it in the winter. You avoid the sand flies and get some great scenery. Just dress up warm.

No guaranty on the snow though.