The rain was a mere drizzle while having breakfast and packing, and after our morning briefing we hit the water for our first full day. As to be expected in true Southland style, the rain was plentiful, surrounding us with amazing rainbows and an eerie atmosphere. The wind held off for the morning, even evading those with sails on the hunt for a free ride. Some of us followed Tony, our adventurous one into the water falls – they created their own gales, and a bit of a thrill as you nosed your boat in under them waiting in suspense for that moment when the water started drumming on the front of your kayak.

A lunch stop and yet another toilet stop (yes, when out kayaking females still go to the toilet in groups – one stops, and the others take the opportunity, you never know when the next will be!!), a few more rain showers, some wind and 31kms later we made it to the top of Lake Manapouri. The visitors centre, provided a great veranda for cooking on (provided you didn’t mind breathing mouthfuls of sandflies) and the flush toilets were a great luxury. 7 of us decided to make the most of the DOC hut up the road, in need of a good nights sleep. Despite threats of loud snoring, we all enjoyed the mattresses and slept like logs. Those toughing it out in the hammocks said they rested – maybe not so much sleep then! The next morning dawned, rather chilly compared to the previous day, with a fresh capping of snow on the surrounding snow.

The group split into 3 – one, an injured party and his co-paddler took the ferry out, and were then able to greet us with the vehicles at the other end, a group of 5, ready slightly before the rest, slightly impatient and getting cold quickly, and the other 6 following at their pace. I joined the first group, and very quickly wondered if that had been a good choice, as I seemed to be left behind all the time – I blame it on the fact I was the photographer by this stage as well as the radio operator and every time I had nearly caught the group up I’d have to stop to take a photo or talk on the radio. Our group managed to leave about half an hour ahead of the other group – and only just maintained it, losing ground by yes, a toilet stop that involved a detour to a beach! Leaving the lunch site as the 2^nd group arrived for lunch, we had a great paddle in the afternoon, no rain, the wind was light – providing some surfing when out of the shelter of the islands.

35kms of paddling later and a short drive, Te Anau provided luxury cabins at the camp ground, and a great group dinner to celebrate Neil’s Birthday. Hot showers and food cooked by someone else are appreciated so much more after a cold long days paddling.

Wednesday, arrived with snow. This of course closed the road to Milford Sound which happened to be our next destination. Plans were discussed and various options looked at, a trip on Lake Te Anau was decided upon. Real coffee and bakery goodies and we headed up the lakeside to Te Anau Downs. By this stage the sun had come out and it was a perfect day weather wise – no wind brilliant blue skies calm water. Russell’s wrist was still playing up, so I took Caitlin out in the double. Heading across the lake to Middle Arm and the islands there, we instigated a game of tag. Its amazing how little it takes to bring the child out of adults, everyone was racing about and sneaking up on each other. A nice lunch stop on the beach of one of the islands, the toilet stops weren’t limited to the girls this time, with sudden alterations being made to a wetsuit with the aid of a knife…..it explained why a certain member of our group always had holes in his trousers!!!!

A great paddle back, with a stop in the middle of the lake to practice rolls and other stints. Andy showed us his head stand skills followed by a dip in the lake – Laura took the opportunity and sped away from her dad, the fastest paddling I’ve ever seen her do! We arrived back at the vehicles and loaded the trailer. We were all loath to leave, and end a perfect day. We lingered on, Diane trying her hand at fishing, the rest of us sitting watching the stunning sunset (and trying to ignore the clouds looming over the mountains).

The weather not being kayaking weather, we left Te Anau on Thursday, heading north in the search for good paddling weather and water. We stopped at Kawarau for the bungy jump – Andy and Laura completing a tandem jump, and Tony inspiring the rest of us by being the only 70yr old I’ve ever watch jump. Sitting still in the van all day was hard work after all the kayaking, a stop on Lindis pass for a snow fight and to build a couple of snow men was a break enjoyed by all. A night in Twizel and dinner at the local bistro, somehow the whole town knew we were “the kayaking group”.

We headed to Lake Tekapo, hoping the weather would hold off long enough for us to get on the water. We managed about 40mins before the wind reached about 50knots – the ride back was great!! The paddles were enough of a sail although those with a sail had an even better ride.

On the hunt again for good weather we continued north, and spent the night in Akaroa. Probably our worst meal of the trip at the local pub, the walk round the water front was a great change to the driving. Exploring the playground, climbing trees and sitting in the old whaling pots added to a nice stroll. The next day was the weather we had been looking for. We put in at Wainui, and started towards the heads in the hope of seeing dolphins. Again the wind picked up, a head wind again. So we turned around to head further up the harbour. A toilet stop again, which proved not to be as private as normal, with random walkers coming down in to the bay just as we were making the most of the protection made by the rocks. A not so subtle approach had to be used in the end to warn them away!

We found a great lunch stop – with left behind buildings, much speculation as to the purpose behind the little house, the emptied shed, and the run down tractor called “Goliath”. The trip back was a bit more exciting with the waves picking up and requiring a little more concentration. Our adventurous Tony, decided to practice his rolls in amongst the waves, and the 2^nd time round fell out (intentionally it turned out!). A great exercise in rescuing a fellow paddler from the water – much to be learnt and thought provoking for future kayaking adventures.

On the road again, and yes heading north, The trip was nearing an end and we had one more place to stop the night – Hamner Springs, a soak in the hot pools to end a kayaking trip of over 130kms in total. We arrived early evening, to the forest camp – great little cabins, and a lounge/kitchen set aside for us (maybe they thought we’d be noisy!), and discovered the hot pools were closed. A cheap little Chinese restaurant looked after us for dinner, and a night spent finishing all the junk food and drink supplies, debriefing the trip in our lounge saw us heading to bed in the early hours of the morning. Sunday came around with a depressing start to the day for some with the rugby results and very windy and wet weather. The hot pools had opened by this stage so as there was little hope of getting out kayaking we took the time to have a soak. And then it was the last leg back to Picton and what seemed like the longest ferry ride ever.

While a bit of a shame we never made it to Milford Sound it was an awesome trip – great kayaking and sights, good company and many laughs shared. And Milford is there for a future trip.

Written by Anjuli Burrell